![]() ![]() I may be remembering that incorrectly, though - I am certainly not an expert. Worst is in symphony scenario playing outside, where if I remember correctly strings and brass/woodwinds react oppositely in regards to going flat or sharp in differing weather scenarios. I do this with guitar and bass, running my hands up and down the strings to get them at temperature before tuning, but with brass I believe it's even more of an issue. ![]() You also have to get the instrument warmed up for proper tuning. We have a brass section (trumpet and trombone) in our band, they used to use a Peterson VS-II to tune up, lately have been using the strobosoft apps on their iPhones for that. You get a baseline tuning with concert Bb to start out though. you gotta have an ear and keep it in tune with that, either mouthing it down or if you're playing something like a trumpet or flugalhorn, kick out the tuning slide with your pinky. F my life this summer with my polarized Ray Bans, maybe I'll rig up a shade for my tuner lol. ![]() OP may happier sluffing off his strobostomp and using the funds to help pay for a Turbo Tuner, which probably overall is the better tuner.Īh, right you are about the percentage v times thing, my goof. So, I would not get rid of a Strobostomp, which I'm really used to and whose display is more easily visible out doors and whose large pedalboard real estate is not a problem for me. And I'm about to go on a month long outdoor summer festival tour, which has me really apprehensive about the Turbo Tuner. I'll temper my previous comments with the fact that I don't sell much gear, and I've been using the Strobostomp for 8 years (and tuning brass instruments with physical Peterson strobe tuners for years before that) and am just a month into getting used to the Turbo Tuner, and I'm not at a loss for real estate on my pedal board. You'll never get either tuner to stay still either way, and they are both accurate enough that you can pretty much which direction of barely out of tune you want to be on all strings and get a well intonated guitar sounding about as in tune as a non tempered instrument can get. Both are super quick for tuning up, but the Turbo Tuner will actually register the notes while you're cleanly playing a moderately quick melody. Using both, I'll agree that the Turbo Tuner is a lot faster at tracking than the Strobostomp. 1 cents is 30 times more accurate than the TU-2 (+/- 3 cents accuracy). So, the Turbo Tuner is 20% more accurate than the Strobostomp, which at +/. Thanks!Īh, Heisenburg (I'm assuming you are Brian Cranston/Walter White) thanks for the correction.02 vs. I could have just missed the search term, though. ![]() Sorry for all the questions, but I can't recall seeing a comparison between the two. I could probably get an OK trade in on the Strobostomp, but if there is not much difference, I'll stick with it for a while. I bought strictly to do set ups, as it is totally impractical for pedalboard use. I guess my question is whether the Strobostomp and the ST-200 are equally good in getting the guitar in tune, or is one better? Is the bypass as clean, since it would be in the chain of pedals? Finally, how does the big box Peterson stack up as a bench tool. Clearly the single ring strobe display on the ST-200 is easier to see, but the Strobostomp is bought and paid for. However, it looks like I've got the nucleus of a new band forming, and am starting to think about pedalboard structure. I've never used the latter out live since I bought them after my band fell apart. Slight perceived movement to the left or right means the incoming tone is flat or sharp, respectively.I have two of the Petersen strobe tuners - the very firsy big box one with the rubber cover, and the strobostomp. When the flashes of the neon light correlate to the speed the marks on the disk are going around, you get the same strobe effect you see with cameras and synchronized moving objects - the marks on the disk slow down as you get closer to being in tune until they stop moving. As for how it works, basically it amplifies the incoming sound signal and flashes a neon light with it, then it has a disk with a whole bunch of black and white segments in rings that correspond to octaves at a fixed, though switchable, frequency using a stepper motor and a low drift oscillator. I also put in a built in electrolytic mic with a switch so I could use it without an external mic, though other model 400s sometimes had a built in one. Mine was reading a fair bit off what it should, turned out one of the leads on the polyester caps that formed the main oscillator had broken (it was like 4 caps bundled together), so reconnecting it brought it back much closer to calibration. I refurbed one a year or two ago and replaced the main filter caps as well as earthing the chassis - the default cord just floats the chassis between filter caps and when I touched it on a concrete floor (though not on wood) I could feel the tingle. ![]()
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